The person I bought my hovel from left all of the door and window casings and 9″ high floor trims in place. It took me all of 30 seconds to decide that I could duplicate the look for less time and effort than it would take to strip the stuff in situ. I’ve done about as much of that sort of work as I want to. I applaud those who are willing to do that work, but I ain’t one of ‘em.

The upstairs of my house was lead abated and rehabbed before we got here. The downstairs, not so much. I find that when contemplating the work required to strip, sand, and refinish the miles of woodwork in our front rooms, I find that a nice fresh glossy coat of white paint doesn’t bother me one bit.

For a couple of months long, long ago, I lived in a work-furnished apartment in Manhattan that appeared to have 1/4″ of paint on the door trim from repetitive repainting. The thought of refinishing it was horrifying. But turquoise?

Bridgett:

Yes, if that’s all that’s required I would probably go that way, but the woodwork in my place was beat up pretty bad and, while it was nice old hard pine or fir belly molding, It was all mitred corners and the house has moved a bit (1-1/2″ to 2″ dip in the middle, front to back). Also with multiple coats of paint that have peeled and cracked over the 100 or so years I am not confident of adhesion or paint film integrity. I used to sell paint and hardware and putting latex on top of oil or vice versa, regardless of what the ads claim or clerks might tell you, is always a bit iffy.

Aside from that, trying to get clean transitions from sheetrock to the old plaster and lath that’s still sitting under all of those casings is a nightmare from hell as far as I’m concerned.

I hope your project is error and headache free.